The Decolonial Parent

a continuous work in progress

pawlets

Cute, simple wristwarmers made from a Colourmart sample miniskein received as part of the sample set, embellished with super-simple embroidery to lift the colour.

I used about 100 yards for mine, but as your mileage may vary (ymmv!), these are knitted fingers-to-wrist so you can make these shorter or longer as you require.

Skills required:
Stretchy cast-on (long-tail is fine)
Working in the round
Working flat
Knit
Purl
Slipping stitches purl-wise
Stretchy cast-off (Russian BO is recommended, but any is fine)
Mattress stitch
Duplicate stitch

I call these Pawlets, because a Scots word for mittens is pawkies, but being as these don’t cover your fingers they’re somewhat diminutive pawkies!

MATERIALS

80 metres // 87 yards sport or light DK yarn;

Sample used ColourMart Cashmere 2/7nm DK (100% cashmere; 530 metres // 580 yards per 150g) in brown mix b523;

For detail (optional – see Tiny Accents section): 1 metre // 1 yard 4 ply, sport or light DK yarn;

Sample used Rowan Scottish Tweed 4 ply (100% wool; 110 metres // 120 yards per 25g) in Sunset 011; Please note: this yarn is now discontinued.

Double-pointed needles, or preferred needle for working small circumferences, that gets you gauge;

Stitch marker; Tapestry needle.

GAUGE

24 sts x 33 rows = 10cm // 4 inches in stockinette worked in the round, washed.

Suggested needle size = 3.75mm // US5

SIZING & DIMENSIONS

Circumference (unstretched): 30 cm // 12 inches; Length: 24 cm // 9.5 inches OR custom.

ABBREVIATIONS

k = knit;
k2tog = knit two together (1 stitch decreased);
m = marker;
pm = place marker;
psso = pass the slipped stitch over the last worked stitch (1 stitch decreased);
sl m = slip marker;
sl kwise = slip the stitch as if to knit;
wyib = holding the yarn at the back of the work;
sts = stitch(es);
yo = yarn over (wrap the yarn over the top of the needle from front to back) (1 stitch increased).

DIRECTIONS

Cast on 40 sts using a medium-stretchy method, e.g. long-tail, cable.

Join to work in the round. Pm for start of round.

Ribbing round: (K 2, p 2) to end.
Repeat twice more for a total of 3 rounds.

Even round: K all sts.
Repeat three times more for a total of 4 rounds.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, k to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, p to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 nine times more for a total of 20 rows.
Join again to work in the round.

Work Even Round for a total of 24 rounds, or until mitts measure 1cm // 0.25 inches shorter than desired length.

Work Ribbing Round for a total of 4 rounds. Bind off loosely.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.
Block gently to the dimensions given in Sizing (see Blocking section).

TINY ACCENTS (just for fun!)

Thread a tapestry needle with a scrap of contrasting yarn and work 2 mattress stitches over the top of three stitches at either end of the thumb opening.

With the thumb opening along one side, find the oppo- site edge and locate the stitch 2 rows above the ribbing on the imaginary side-seam.

Work a duplicate stitch over this stitch to form a tiny heart in your contrasting colour.

BLOCKING

There is really no need to block these if you’re going to wear them right away, but if you’re making these as a gift, or planning to store them for the summer, you might want to give them a wash and a block.

I recommend soaking them for 15 minutes in warm water (cold water if you’re concerned about colours bleeding) with a little wool soak or mild shampoo (2-in-1 works great!), then squeezing out the excess water.

Lay them flat in their rough shape on a small towel, roll up the towel with the mitts inside and then beat it hard with the sides of your fists or jump on top of it a few times.

Lay the mitts out in 2 neat rectangles of the same size (use a ruler if this helps to get your edges straight and even-lengthed) and wait for them to dry thoroughly before wrapping or storing.